Faster
than fairies, faster than witches,
Bridges
and houses, hedges and ditches;
And
charging along like troops in a battle,
All
through the meadows the horses and cattle;
All
of the sights of the hill and the plain,
Fly
as thick as the driving rain;
And
ever again, in the wink of an eye,
Painted
stations whistle by.
~Robert
Louis Stevenson
"Inside Nairobi
station, it is like stepping into a time warp. The arrivals and departures
board looks as though it hasn't been updated since I first did the journey 28
years ago...As we pull slowly out of the station shortly after 7pm, the sun is
setting behind the shacks that have sprung up all along the track...The ticket
collector tells me to close the windows and lock the doors before going to
sleep. But the window doesn't shut properly, the fan doesn't work, and the
lights keep going on and off...The road to the coast runs parallel with the
railway for much of the route, and heavily laden trucks churn up the pot-holed
tarmac, taking goods to Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi, Sudan, Congo and beyond."
~
It goes by several names: The Iron Snake, the Lunatic Line, the Jambo
Kenya Deluxe. Winston Churchill shot zebras sitting next to its great engines
and man-eating lions stalked its trains' carriages, devouring men at night.
Over the years, hundreds have perished in its iron body from faulty brakes,
exploding gas tanks, and powerful floods that washed away bridges.
The mysteries and horror stories
attached to the African railway are legendary. But, the system -stretching
through Kenya and Uganda - is about to get a 21st century facelift thanks to a
nearly $40 million loan from the African Development Bank.
A new transportation plan is in
the works for East Africa. Kenya Railways will build 12 commuter train stations
to connect the Nairobi metropolitan area. The rail between the coastal city of
Mombasa in Kenya, and Kampala, Uganda is to be re-vamped by 2017. There is also
talk of railway lines connecting Lamu, Kenya to Juba, South Sudan, as well as
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. The last rail stations in Kenya were built in 1935.
The trains, which can run at a
sloth-like pace, are to be replaced with high speed trains. A once 15 hour ride
from Nairobi to Mombasa will only take two or three hours. The new rail system
won't just benefit commuters and tourists. It will also create a trade network
for goods like coffee, cotton and gold. Kenya Railways is currently managed by
Rift Valley Railways - a mix of Kenyan, Ugandan, Brazilian and Egyptian
companies. But the railway is plagued by great debt and a region battling high
levels of corruption, not to mention the worst famine in decades. East Africa's
perhaps grandiose rail endeavor will either be a boom or a bust.
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